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More than two decades ago, the volcano in Montserrat exploded with catastrophic consequences. Although many years have since passed, Celeste vividly remembers the eruption. She lost her life's work: the shop she owned in the island's capital. Today, where her shop once stood, lays an ash-coated ghost town. However, much like the regrowth of vegetation across the land, the community has a new-found vitality. Youngsters race cars on abandoned streets, taking back what the volcano stole from them. Mappie, a gardener, hikes with us through the thick rain-forest: "The volcano does a range of good and bad" he says. "People thought Montserratians would have left. But I'm staying." Yet, the active volcano, under observation by scientists, lurks menacingly in the background. As everyday life unfolds, the most awaited day of the year arrives - St Patrick's day. It is a litmus test: will people fill the streets, resilient? Or will the streets remain empty, signalling a community broken beyond ...